Thursday and Friday, June 14 & 15

Thursday, June 13

Travel Day

Driving south from Rotarua to Taupo there are still many, many geothermal features.  The pine forest is a well-managed crop and we’ve heard that these trees grow faster than their cousins in the US.  A 150-year-old Redwood forest in the Rotorua area has trees that measure the same size as the same trees in the US.  The day is sunny and in the temperature is around 50+ degrees F.  However, we’d find ourselves driving through steam from the local features.  Ending as fast as it began, the whole experience was a little eerie, but cool.

 Lake Taupo, the biggest freshwater lake in the Southern Hemisphere.

The water was crystal clear.

We made the decision to head to Wellington. There are some other lovely places to see south of Rotorua, but we’ve been told by many people that two weeks is only just enough time to see the south island. North of Taupo we came across a glass blowing studio where we spent a little time shopping and even more time eating at their café.  Table numbers were blocks of glass with numbers blown into them.  A waterfall beside the patio dining was made with large red glass bowls, four all together, each pouring into the next.  We had the best meal by far—bacon and spinach quiche with a salad and a beef pie topped with potatoes and a salad. Each came with a tasty green tomato chutney. We tried coffee again—I think we’re going to give up.  Our first stop when we get home will have to be Starbucks.

As we drove, the forest opened as it so often does to reveal Lake Taupo.  From our high vantage point we could get a feel for it’s enormity.  Lake Taupo is the largest freshwater lake in the southern hemisphere.  We pulled into a picnic stop to take pictures.  Far off in the distance I think I could see Mt. Edgemont in New Plymouth, also known as Taranaki, a perfect cone-shaped mountain.  The couple who stopped us at the glass place to visit live near there and told us it was the location of the filming of “The Last Samuri.”  The water was VERY clear, which is probably why the trout fishing is world-renowned here.  I stuck my foot in the water which wasn’t very cold.  The view all around the lake kept us fascinated. Passing the south end of the lake saw our first glimpse of snow on the mountains and in honor of it, the air became just a bit cooler.  Another mountain to the west looks to be venting steam; no big surprise as this is also a geothermal area.

We keep marveling at the forest industry management, which is revealed with row upon neatly-line row of pine trees. 

Leaving Taupo the land changed.  Two huge, snow-covered mountains remained to the west, but the land became brown and hilly.  Jim loved this area as it reminded him of home.  He said later it was the view of the mountains that really attracted him.   

Later we saw that this area is an army base, used for all manner of training.  Later the land became green again.  We noticed higher, tighter fences and realized we were passing elk farms.

The GPS presented something of a problem yesterday.  I think the GPS voice finally got tired of us and took revenge.  We had been in Wellington for 30 minutes with the PGS signaled a turn in 500 meters.  Jim turned because mostly we listen to the GPS and appreciate it.  However, this road was dark and pitched upward.  Undaunted, he followed.  I realized very quickly that I needed to keep my head down and read. But even that didn’t help when I saw how slowly he was driving, how tightly he was hugging the mountain face, and how many times he had to stop to let traffic pass.  This was the highest, curviest, NARROWEST mountain road we’d traversed to date. Even Jim was nervous and blurted out that we were driving with a deep cliff off the road.  I was so thankful when that trip was over and even more thankful when we realized we didn’t have to return that way!

Safely situated in the campground. 

Random Thoughts:

·      There are swans everywhere.  We’ve seen them in Rainbow Springs park, but also on large bodies of water, Lake Rotorua, Lake Rotoriti and now Lake Taupo.

·      These travel days make me a bit bluesy, leaving another region.

Friday, June 15

Wellington

Today was a great day in so many ways.  We took the city bus into the center of Wellington, on the shore of the ocean.  We weren’t sure where to get up, so we asked the bus driver.  He was very friendly, called me up to sit by him and he told me all the things to look for at the National Museum, all the things I’d be missing, not to eat there be because it was too expensive.  He had us get off at a mall food court because they food would be cheaper and we’d only have to walk two more blocks to the museum.  Then on the return trip the grumpy driver turned all smiles when Jim asked him to let us know when we got to our stop.  He was full of helpful information.  I noticed that everyone getting off the bus thanked the driver.  What a nice habit.  There isn’t a lot of tipping here unless you’re in a big city and then it’s only to the doorman and something else—I forgot whom.  The guidebook says that people here wouldn’t know what to do if you try to tip them.  Any way, lunch was at a mall food court. 

I had a Thai food buffet and Jim had McDonalds because of the fish scare.  The burgers had different names, all starting with Mac of course.  He said the beef tasted a little rangy.  

 So when we had been through two floors of the museum we stopped for a little snack—a giant brownie and hot black current juice.  Very tasty! Many desserts are served with what they refer to as cream and we call whipping cream. It’s unsweetened and is very good.   

Dairy is a staple here and the biggest export and industry. 

After lunch dropped in the to the Pharmacy for a nail file, clippers, and advil.  This little store had everything we needed but in half the space of a Wal-Mart or even Walgreens.  Half the store was dedicated to makeup and beauty supplies.  The pharmacist worked behind the counter, no glass or safety measures between her and the customers. We stopped into the book store, too.  As usual we found ourselves in the children’s section and as usually found ourselves at the cash register buying children’s books.  Jim found some GREAT books! I was so excited about his selections, that as soon as dinner was over tonight I started sketching out some lesson plans!

Te Papa is the national museum of New Zealand.  Situated right on the bay, there is a fantastic view of the ships, small boats and Wellington skyline from the museum—especially the 6^th floor sculpture terrace that doesn’t have any sculptures. 

The museum is free with donation boxes scattered around the floors, especially at special exhibits, to help defray cost.  The architecture of the building is fantastic. The flow of the exhibits draws guests from display to display, especially in the Maori exhibits. Video is effectively used throughout several displays to enhance the displays.  I was simply amazed by the building, the content (mostly) and could have spent several days.  It’s also the kind of place that I could actually imagine taking my lunch to sit in front of a favorite painting and contemplating.  We started with the sixth floor—a tiny display of pottery by a NZ potter  It was exceptional! He was influenced by both traditional English pottery and a school of pottery in Nigeria. Go figure.  Both influences were evident in color, form and function.  I like this guy’s attitude.  He believes pottery should be beautiful and functional.  Tea anyone?

The fifth floor was fine art and some Maori artists included.  This is where things went sideways.  I discovered that I am a great admirer of the portrait painters of the 18^th and 19^th centuries.  I even took great pleasure in the landscapes of the 19^th century, especially those of New Zealand origin.  I draw the line at anything called modern, post-modern, or space-oriented post-modern.  There was actually an exhibit of plastic hanging from the ceiling with balls at the bottom of the plastic.  Beside it was a giant clear plastic cube filled with air.  We just started giggling and exited the room as quickly as possible.   Our snack was a lovely break.  The café reminded me of a lounge, with comfy chairs pulled around low tables. 

Our next stop with a living exhibit of Maori capes. The workman ship and history was really exceptional.  Considering that most of these capes were made with flax, natural dies, dog fur (Maori brought dogs with them to NZ; only birds, bugs, and non-poisonous snakes lived here when they arrived), and feathers, they really were exceptional.   There were displays showing the supernatural origins of weaving, the cultural implications, the work of modern weavers and even modern examples fashion with the influence of the cape designs.  From there we went into the main Maori display.  It featured a HUGE waka (canoe) and many examples of Maori culture.  However, Jim and I looked at each other and decided we were Maori-ed out.  It was time to leave.

We walked back the way we came and found the bus stop headed east. Evidently we’re not aggressive enough because the bus passed us the first time.  Cold and a little confused we went back into the mall where there was a Starbucks.  All the coffee we’ve had so far has been instant.  It was delicious to have a real venti hot cinnamon dulci latte.  Back on the other side of the street we wait another 30 minutes for our bus.  The driver kindly left us off at our stop and gave us directions to get back to the campground. We’d been dry all day (if not a little cold) and now the rain started in earnest when we had .25 miles to walk.  Never fear! I had my trusty umbrella! My trusty umbrella, however, is made for Arizona rain, not driving, cold winter rain!  Of course is inverted within a few minutes.  Undaunted, and VERY cold I turned it around and basically wore it as a hat.  It did keep my head, shoulders, backpack and sweater and vest dry, but dripped water onto my pants.  Next time we’ll take the time to dig the rain ponchos out of Jim’s backpack!!

Mountains frame Wellington with houses stacked up on them much like LA, only the mountains are closer.  The downtown skyline is much like Auckland, which is much like Montreal, which is much like any other city where the buildings are close together and buses and cars and bikes and pedestrians fight for the street. Of course we were in the artsy expensive part of the city, but I’d like to believe that if I were a single, 20-something in NZ to complete my doctorate on Library Science focused on South-east Asia, I would live in this area.  (We actually me that girl! She was from Chicago.  Massey University—very close to the museum—has the very emphasis she’s working on. She’s working at the Museum part time. I think I would LOVE to live vicariously through her!)  Storefronts offer everything! And we even saw a Westfield mall! Different stores inside, but Westfield none the less!  Lots of Thai/Chinese food.  Lots of store fronts with food, no seating inside.  You simply order and “take away.”  Familiar food names include McDonalds, Burger King, Pizza Hut, Dominoes, Wendy’s (only in one city), and Starbucks. We’ve seen a handful of people here who don’t wear shoes! I think it’s a Maori thing.  However the man we saw at the bus stop was in a ski coat with a scarf around his neck and was BAREFOOT! Can you tell we had fun people watching this evening?

The campgrounds we’ve stayed at are GREAT! We’ve stayed at the “Top Ten Holiday Parks” which is something like KOAs, only nicer.  They all have common kitchen facilities (and often two kitchens, one in each part of the parks), family rooms with computers and TV, BBQ grills outside the kitchens, cabins for rent, laundry, showers, great playgrounds.  In Rotorua they had hot mineral pools. Here they have “private bathrooms.”  Each has a soaking bathtub and shower, toilet, sink, blow dryer. 

We’re leaving the campground at 6:30 a.m. tomorrow to go to the ferry depot. South island, here we come! We’re thinking whale watching is in our future.  I still think that the volcano has been my favorite adventure to date.  The boat trip was uneventful until we had to transfer from the boat to a little rubber boat that took us to the jetty.  Then we had to transfer from the rubber boat to the jetty.  Since I lack grace in SO many ways, I’m sure they crew had a good laugh at my expense.

Random Thoughts:

·      Fire trucks typically have four guys and are red!

·      Ducks are naughty! A flock waited outside our door this a.m. until I gave them bread. However, they got very aggressive and started biting one another.  I heard Jim laughing from the back of the motor home when I started calling out, “Bad ducks! Bad ducks!”  They camped outside our door threatening violence if we didn’t feed them more.  Jim threatened back and they dispersed.

·      Lots of yoga here.  Saw the first sign for Zumba today.

·      Not many churches.  The few I’ve seen are Anglican.  Only one LDS church in Auckland it was in a neighborhood where we had gotten lost.

·      Most businesses close up around 6:00 p.m. A few take away remain open, but everything else is dark around 6:00 p.m.